Відео

You still need a puck to control them. If you put them in manual mode you can open them all the way, half way or close them.

Cool thanks for the heads up, I didn't even know GoodYear made one.

I just watched a video on it. It looks great and much easier to turn I see. ua-cam.com/video/82CRPoaBLdM/v-deo.html

Don't see why not I used UA-cam on it. UA-cam was hard to use because the icons like the search is so small. Almost everything in the android market could be installed.

That's awesome to hear. I'm glad you went through the comments for extra tips. Good luck with it.

Maybe, I never tried it

ua-cam.com/users/shortsQkbrZAiPNE4?si=MJCF4OQ6VgHmwS4s

Great question. On the box it said quad-core but when I look it up they say 8 core. It's hard to find, but I did get the cpu model numbers when I was looking for a box. The transcend had the fastest cpu chip out of all the brands at the time. That's why it needed 2 USB ports in my truck to power it up. I gave the unit away because it needed so much power and I didn't like it taking up two USB ports. It will work with one USB if your port is a fast charging port with lots of power. Mine only puts out 1-1.5 amps I think. Also, don't get any box unless it has 8gig of ram, I noticed a big difference going from 4 to 8. The box I use now is a 8gig MMB. It has a slower CPU but runs off a lower powered USB port, It's not the new one they are selling. I also hated the MagicBox, that was a joke.

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thanks much for the info and update!

Yes, but the top could be mitered and still be fine. But with the 2x4 frame going across one way and the top going the other way, it's a bit stronger. It's strong enough to hold me standing on the corner. I see no problems with making it a mitered corner if someone wanted to do that.

@ I’m planning a similar design but probably going to use a plywood as the tabletop. Came here looking to see how others were supporting their inside corners. A solution I’ve come to is that for the longest part of the frame, the one that is the least supported, I think I’m going to notch out a slot for it in the 4xs that support it on each end. That way it should transfer almost all of its weight directly onto the posts. What do you think of that idea?

I used wood dowels as you seen I'm sure, but notching the 4x4 would be stronger and it's a good idea if you are using plywood for the top. The plywood will have a lot of flex, so you might want to double up on the 2x4 in the front on the frame. If you sandwich 2 of them going the full length, that should help. I put my keyboard slide out on the short side of the frame because the top is the longer and that's what supports the short frame side. How thick will the plywood be? If you glued 2 sheets of 3/4 that would be really strong. If you don't plan on standing on top of the desk, I say just double up the 2x4 on the frame that goes all the way across. That will be more than enough. If you like, you can contact me on Facebook. That way, we can send images to help explain things. facebook.com/RicksTechTalk

This is the one I was referring to about doubling up, This is a time stamp link ua-cam.com/video/YcUu8U2UjYw/v-deo.htmlsi=IKvZgkTbTXlLchSl&t=215

Yes, I don't know how many it can do, but I have 3 vents in one room under one puck

I dont think it will do both at the same time but it should work to who ever is in the car when it turns on.

@ that’s fine. We have an older different brand that gives you a few sec to choose whose phone to connect when we are both in the car. Otherwise it defaults to last connected phone if no one selects anything.

I would say yes, but I have not tried it. I have seen some other videos of it being used on a gravel roads.

Are you saving the recordings to the SD card, and how are you playing them back? I download mine from the SD card and that's what I used in the video. If you are using the cloud or playing the clips back over wifi maybe that's why they are choppy. Try saving the clips then play them back or play directly from the sd card.

Thanks for watching, and I wish concrete was an option at the time. I called 3 people, and they all wanted around $1500 I think they quoted it so high because they wanted nothing to do with it. They all came out before it was jacked up, that's probably why. I bet if I had it up and framed off, it would have been around 300-400. But I didn't think of it at the time.

Yup OSB would not be good, I used pressure-treated plywood. I ended up putting rock all the way around the shed to help keep it dryer.

lol you are the first to point that out. It's a good thing I'm not building homes ;) For not knowing everything I would say it's holding up great.

I know the website says maximum grade of 6% but are you sure you calculated your slope correctly? I used a digital angle meter to get the degree of my driveway, then I calculated that to percentage. So my 3.1 degree slope is approximately a 5.4% slope. If your driveway looks close to mine, you will be fine. If not, you might want to email them and see if a different unit would do the trick. Good luck

They might have found a new way to lock them down, this video is a few years old. But try another web browser, see if that helps

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thank you! I've tried every browser, shut off my virus protection, etc... hoping to find an old laptop....

You meant to type AP not WAP right? If so, I'm not sure. They could have updated the firmware and fixed the issue.

I agree. They would sell alot more if they got the price down.

I hear ya, its not cheap. I'm going to look at the vacuum bags for my longer term storage for the filament that won't get used much. I have to start looking and get some storage ideas. Thanks for watching the video

Very true, I don't see why they even need them unless it's in case you don't want to vacuum them every time. But then you might as well use ziplock bags.

Actually, $110 it comes with the pump $90 just for the containers. With the sale they have going on now I think it’s a pretty good deal but without the sale, I agree with you they are a bit pricey .

I might try the bags too, thanks for watching it anyway.

@Ricks_Tech_Talk if you do, place the reel in an unsealed gallon ziploc bag, then place that inside the vacuum sealed bag. Keeps the small burs from poking holes in them.

That's a great tip, thanks

I appreciate you taking the time and sharing that. It was very helpful with the first batch of containers I got. The only thing I did to change your design for myself was thicken the top piece. Probably didn’t have to, but it seemed like it took a little bit of the flexing out when I was putting them on.

Sorry, I forgot what app they use but I know it comes with the lights. If they are still being sold on Amazon, it might say in their description what app they use.

I’ll have to look into getting a dry box that’s a good point dry it first before storing it. As for the clips, my first batch was so bad they wouldn’t stay on unless I held them together. The second batch wasn’t that bad though.

That's some great info. I still have no clue where I'm going to store the filament. I might use the containers for the ones I use all the time, but I will need something cheaper for the other stuff.

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk I found a cheap floor standing cabinet that's deep enough for filament reels and bought some 20mm OD rails. I printed out some rail supports that fitted the cabinets shelf mounting points and also mid rail bridges to stop the rails spreading when the spools sit on them. It was a satisfying project. Seem most of what I print is to do with my printers and paraphernalia, lol. Nice and tidy, easy access especially with reels sorted by color. Using the vacuum tubs would really limit the amount of filament I could store. Another bonus is the stored filament is out of any strong UV light which can only help.

Wish I had room for a cabinet, unless I put it in the other room. I'm trying to come up with a storage system for under my desk, but something that's off the floor.

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk The cabinet I'm using is only 27"w x 15.3"d x 65"h and I can store over 60 spools of packed filament. It doesn't take up that much space. I think it's neater than a loooog shelf of filament on the wall. I store my extra filament storage kit in there as well i.e. desiccant, desiccant containers, vacuum bags etc so it's a very practical solution for me.

I agree they are a bit pricey, but after using them for a while, I think they are worth it. I think I might just keep the filament that I use all the time in the containers and the rest in something else.

Great point. I didn't know they made vacuum sealed bags for filament until now. The only benefit of the container be they look nicer and stack nice. Thanks for watching the video.

The boiling point of water decreases in a vacuum so what 'boils' out of the filament can be absorbed by the desiccant.

If anyone is interested, I actually use a VacMaster chamber vac and I re-seal all my filament after drying that way. I simply have too much filament to make Print Dry containers economical. I use Print Dry for a few spools next to the A1 with its exposed AMS, so I can rotate things in and out without having to re-bag. The VacMaster is obviously a super over-the-top solution to the problem but it starts getting economical when you have hundreds of rolls and very much want to pick something off the shelf and know 100% it’s dry.

On the top of Print Dry containers (the ones with a valve and vacuum pump) pulling moisture out - I think I’ve seen this happen. I’ve opened stuff that was sealed inside for several months, and the entire lip around the seal is greasy and damp to the touch. I’m not sure if that’s moisture being pulled in from the outside or coming from the filament - I’d actually guess it’s more likely moisture coming in from the outside.

Thanks, any type of sticks like what the kids use?

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk 2nd Post regarding this: I Forgot to mention... The Wittworks link I posted last.. I posted it at a spot in the video where he was discussing a problem he had, after 1.5 months of printing.. Was printing something he had printed hundreds of times, and, it just would not print worth a hoot and failed... He was printing abrasive filaments (Selling 3D Printed Products), and ran into this problem after only 1.5 months.. Just totally screwed up and failed... It is interesting what the problem turned out to be.. He shows the original 0.4mm tip he was using, a 0.4mm replacement tip that he is going to install to solve the problem, and a 0.8mm tip for comparison... WOW!! Makes you wonder, if you think about it.. How did he NOT NOTICE, his Prints Changing while the tip went from 0.4mm to 0.8mm???? I'll bet he pays more attention in the future!!! Ha..Haa... Just that information alone I thought was pretty powerful... There is another discussion he had (printing a Green Vase), where he moved from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle, and solved a problem he was having and ended up with a stronger/better looking part... I love finding "Problem solving Videos", more than watching "HowTo" videos.. They are much more valuable to me.. The Reason I look for videos like the first one I posted on the build plates.. These are issues that the Pro's figure out, while they are printing and running into problems... Saves us a lot of time.. Ha..Ha..

not sure how someone could miss the size différance. I'm not sure if I'll replace mine with a stock nozzle or try a 3rd party one. But that's why I love UA-cam, great place for info.

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Bambu's replacement nozzles are tool steel or Hardened steel. I know they sell Hot ends, and Complete hot ends, not sure if they nozzles only, but, you can surely find just the threaded 0.4mm tips, which just screw on. Good Luck.

Glue on the bed helps, I use Magigoo (however it’s spelled). I use a Lightyear G10 plate which is extra thick which provides additional protection against warping. With a thin standard plate, printing a very large part, the ABS warp is plenty strong enough to actually defeat the magnets on the standard high temp plate and bend it right off the base! With much smaller parts that won’t be an issue

Just bought 6 more at the sale price. Thanks.

That's great info, thank you so much. I do have some PETG, I might use that instead of ABS. Everyone in the 3d printing community has been great, I love it. Thanks again

I sent a link in the other comment but thanks again for watching the video. I printed the parts, but I haven't run the tube outside yet. Now the one I printed was for the Bambu printer, I'm not sure what one you have. I'm still deciding how I will get the vapors outside.

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Yes, Have an X1c and love it. Have used TPU and PETG along with PLA. I have a few rolls of ABS. I just want to know what other people are doing. I bought a filtered lab fan. I just don't have a windows near so I want to know if the filter is enough. Anyway good luck with the channel, I'll be watching.

Thank you so much. I will post the link to the clips in the discretion and the vent system. But here is what I used for the vent. thangs.com/designer/logicalplanet/3d-model/BambuLab%20X1%20Series%20and%20P1S%20Exhaust%20Capture%20System%20%28with%20LED%20support%29%20ECS3-1165607

@@Ricks_Tech_Talk This system is very cool. I can use it. Thanks. Love the LED addition too.

Thank you so much. Here is the clip I used. I'm also going to add it to the description. makerworld.com/en/models/135358#profileId-146899

I just added some links, thank you so much for reminding me. I just looked, and they have a sale going on upto the 8th for 25% off with code BFCM24

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for checking it out. I'm very happy with it

Thank you. I just added some links, no idea how I forgot all the good stuff, lol

Yes, you could do the lights without the meter. After you do it a few times and monitor it you'll know about how long it takes, then you can just set a timer.

Oh I hear ya it wasn't cheap. But without it, I wouldn't be able to get my camper in place on the right side. So for me, I never once had a regret on buying it. If you end up getting one let me know how you like it.

I wouldn't push tips through unless you have to. The segments are what makes the indents, so don't let anyone punch the board, lol. As for removing the darts, twist clockwise and pull out. This keeps the tips tight on the dart and helps release them from the board. I only use 16-18 g darts.